NY Mag: Restaurant Revolution on Smith St?

Although the writers admit to not having eaten at Porchetta yet, they portend a revolution on Brooklyn's restaurant row:

...no guarantee that the place will be making money a year from now. But if Neroni matches his aspirations, we're fully expecting a restaurant-world shake-up.

Porchetta aims for nothing less than the domestication of molecular gastronomy. That scientific school of cooking has remained a mandarin pursuit, limited to a few hyperambitious chefs like Neroni and his master, Wylie Dufresne. But nobody really loves that kind of cooking — the geometric forms, the tiny portions, the too precious high-concept abstraction. Everybody, however, loves Italian food, which is thought to be one of the least challenging cuisines to prepare. If Neroni can truly combine the two schools, he will have begun to bring the culinary mainstream into the 21st century.