celebrating the glories of eating in brooklyn. from the gut.

Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Traditional Italian Dining at Locanda Vini & Olii

Due to the transit strike and last minute holiday shopping, this will be a quick one. But I just wanted to get a word in on the wonderful experience I had at Locanda Vini & Olii in Clinton Hill last week.

Housed in a charming and spacious old pharmacy, Locanda Vini & Olii replicates a traditional Italian dining experience. If you have the room for it, I encourage you to partake in as many courses as possible: something for the table, primi, secondi, cheese, dessert etc.

Don't let the bland parsley puree they bring for the bread turn you off, once you get past that the food was delicious. Borrata, a creamy mozzarella, was soft and delectable with just the right hint of saltiness. The earthy wild boar carpaccio and mushrooms was also a hit. I normally don't order pasta in restaurants, but I couldn't have been happier with mine. Broad, square, homemade noodles were surrounded by bright squid and creamy lentils. It seems like an odd combination, but it certainly did the trick. Another stand out was the rustic rabbit stew.

After such stand-out fare who could resist dessert? I was particularly fond of a chunky hazelnut tart: simple yet satisfying. And that's how I would sum up the pleasure of eating at Locanda Vini & Olii.

Locanda Vini & Olii is located at 129 Gates Avenue. 718 622 9202


Anonymous Anonymous said...

I have been to this restaurant twice, and I simply can not understand why it gets such consistently good reviews. The parsley puree that they bring out to begin is downright gross, and the other things we ordered were all poorly prepared. Add to this the pretentious Italian proprietor who thinks this place is god's gift to cuisine, and you are guaranteed to leave disappointed. For truly great Italian food in Brooklyn, go to Al di La, or even Frankie's 457.

11:06 PM


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